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Madurai Sungudi sarees, also known as “Sungudi Sarees” or “Chinnalapattu,” are traditional handcrafted cotton sarees that originate from Madurai, a city in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu. These sarees are celebrated for their vibrant colors, intricate tie-and-dye patterns, and the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into their creation. Here are some key characteristics and details about Madurai Sungudi sarees:
Saree is the traditional dress in Tamil culture in 8th CE. Later on it was spread across the world. In the chola period different varieties of saree and waves method has been implemented. Under the king King Thirumalai Naicker, madurai Sungudi saree has been continued. In 17h CE- the design implementation and innovation happened.
The process of weaving, and dyeing, is laborious, and only the dexterous hands of a denizen of Madurai can weave with the epitome of dedication.
The batik technique of wax-resistant dyeing is applied throughout the fabric and the saree undergoes a tie-dye process or kai katu sungudi process. Only a passion for weaving and a love for keeping the art form alive will ensure that it continues to thrive. A full colour spectrum is used to achieve unique colours, and the texture of the saree is both soft and firm. It has a very adorable design with a contrasting border and an impressive motif. The main raw material for making this fabric is unbleached cotton fabric or saree made of worsted/carded yarn with warp and weft of 80 and 100 count respectively. This fabric is then subjected to a tie-dye process. The fabric is first bleached and then printed with motifs. After that, a knot is tied which is called ‘putta’ or ‘bandhani’ work.
sungudi saree madurai
Over 6 yards of fabric has over 20,000 puttas or knots evenly spaced and sewn with a single thread. The ‘pallu’ part of the saree or fabric is given a contrasting colour by being tied tightly before being subjected to another treatment process with a solution of groundnut oil and alkaline earth. Stomp the material soaked in the solution with your foot several times and keep it moist for 2-3 days. It is then taken out, washed with water from the Vaigai river (water from this river is said to give the fabric a special luster) and dried. This process is repeated over a week. After washing and drying, the fabric is dyed in a vat containing a solution of alizarin red and casa leaves. After dyeing, the fabric is steamed and dried. A special feature of Sungudi sarees is that the knots made with red pigment along the lines of the fabric prevent the colour from penetrating into the knotted areas of the fabric during vat dyeing. After dyeing, remove the threads and knots and loosen the knots. Traditional dyeing processes use vegetable dyes to achieve a variety of colours. However, modern dyeing processes use artificial chemical dyes (aniline) such as alizarin red, naaptol, and indigo to achieve red, blue, and other colour effects. Traditional Sungudi sarees take 10 to 15 days to make, women are involved in the tying process, and the dyeing process is outsourced. This sari is a traditional dress worn by women in some communities during marriages. Tie-and-Dye Technique: Madurai Sungudi sarees are primarily known for their tie-and-dye technique, which is locally referred to as “Sungudi.” In this process, the saree fabric is skillfully folded, tied, and then dyed in various colors. The tying and dyeing create beautiful and often symmetrical patterns on the fabric, which is known for its unique and traditional appeal. Cotton Fabric: These sarees are typically made from soft and breathable cotton fabric. Cotton is well-suited for the tie-and-dye process and is comfortable to wear, especially in the warm and humid climate of South India. Vibrant Colors: Madurai Sungudi sarees are famous for their vibrant and contrasting color combinations. You can find a wide range of colors used, and the patterns are often lively and cheerful. Traditional Motifs: The tie-and-dye patterns on Sungudi sarees often feature traditional and regional motifs. These motifs can include flowers, geometric shapes, birds, and more. The designs reflect the cultural heritage of the Madurai region. Occasional and Daily Wear: Madurai Sungudi sarees are versatile and can be worn for various occasions. While they are suitable for everyday wear, they are also popular choices for festive events, pujas, and ceremonies.
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